Ethical Cosmetics

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In early March, the European Union entered into force a complete ban on testing animal cosmetic products. An ethical attitude towards smaller brothers is becoming the norm.

What does this mean for us, ordinary consumers, and whether it is worth worrying now for the quality of the contents of a magic jar of cream.

For some reason, I remembered the film of Robert Zemeckis "Death to her face." Remember how the aging heroine Meryl Streep, in an effort to stay young, was ready to do anything - surgery, resurfacing, injection - and even drink an incomprehensible potion that promises eternal youth. And nothing is scary to her. By and large, we want the same. Just be sure that the cream in a beautiful jar will not only be effective, but in no case will harm. And they try not to disappoint us: new products appear in attractive packaging and the latest generation of ingredients - more effective and more refined. So is it worth it to rejoice in the environmental awareness of Europe or to worry about the safety of its own priceless appearance in connection with the decision of the EU?

Of course, the movement towards reducing the use of animals in the assessment of the safety of cosmetics is progressive. It is irrational to test a million cosmetics on laboratory rabbits and mice. Especially when it comes to conventional ingredients.Alternative methods have been created for them. For example, biological models. "They allow a very important initial safety assessment of the product."- says candidate of biological sciences, chairman of the board of the Russian Perfume and Cosmetic Association Tatyana Puchkova. But for a comprehensive safety assessment, this is not enough. Indeed, modern cosmetics is complex and multicomponent.

We are increasingly talking about the latest generation of ingredients - peptides, plant stem cells, fragmented hyaluronic acid, etc. How to deal with them? “Alas, the scientific world cannot yet offer a sufficient number of alternative methods that would give an adequate safety assessment. For complex products of intensive action, according to many toxicologists, classical toxicology methods are required, as when testing drugs. That is, using animals. Only so you can evaluate the overall systemic response of the body to the impact "- says our expert.

Of course, today's decision will not lead to a weakening of control over the safety of cosmetic products in Europe. On the contrary, from July 1, new, strengthened legislation on the safety of cosmetic products will be enacted. But the EU is not going to stop there, it encourages manufacturers to continue to search for new alternative testing methods.

In the meantime, according to experts, such a ban will lead to an increase in the market for simple products with time-tested ingredients.The production of complex, innovative, active and multicomponent products, the safety of which must be proved at the level of classical toxicology methods, is likely to decrease and certainly become more expensive.

What and how to check in Russia

Testing cosmetics and individual ingredients on a model of reconstructed human skin (artificial skin).
Studying the phototoxicity of drugs (you need to make sure that no chemical reactions begin to occur under the influence of sunlight).
Test for the safety and inertness of cosmetics for the mucous membrane of the eye.
The main martyrs of science in this segment are chicken eggs. The place of the experimental rabbits was replaced by them.