The yoke, like the upper part of the skirt, resembles a wide belt. This detail visually corrects the protruding tummy and emphasizes the line of the hips, ensures a perfect fit of the skirt on the figure.
✂ Typically, a wide yoke consists of two, three, or four outer parts that are duplicated by exactly the same inner parts.
✂ The inner parts of the coquette can also be cut out from the main or from another fabric.
✂ Depending on the pattern of the model, the parts of the wide yoke can be stitched to the corresponding parts of the skirt both before the sewing of the side and middle seams, and after. In this case, the zipper is always sewn up after the external parts of the wide yoke with the skirt are sewn.
✂ So that the coquette keeps its shape well and does not deform during the wearing of the skirt, the external (or both external and internal) parts of the coquette are always duplicated with cushioning materials.
Using the example of a mini-skirt of a flared silhouette from Burda 5/2019, we will consider how to properly stitch a wide yoke:
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In this model, the outer parts of the coquette are first stitched to the details of the skirt, and then the front and rear halves of the skirt are already ground.
Step 1
Cut out the details of the coquette.
Step 2
Duplicate the details of the outer yoke of the skirt.
Step 3
Fold the outer (= duplicated by laying) coquette parts of the front panel of the skirt with the front sides, grind the middle sections.
Iron seam allowances on the right yoke.
Sew the right yoke along the middle seam close to the seam and at a distance of 7 mm.
On the inner (= not duplicated gasket) part of the yoke of the front panel of the skirt, perform the middle seam.
Iron seam allowances.
Sweep the outer yoke to the upper cut of the front panel of the skirt, aligning the middle seams.
Sew it down.
Iron seam allowances on yoke.
Step 4
The outer (= duplicated by gasket) coquette of the rear panels of the skirt pin to the rear panels of the skirt and stitch.
Iron seam allowances on yoke.
Sew the front and rear skirts of the skirt along the sewing stitches close to the seams and at a distance of 7 mm, breaking the stitches at the front yoke bar.
End the stitches of the stitches on the wrong side and fasten.
Skirt the middle sections of the back panels of the skirt.
Step 5
Stitch zipper.
Complete the middle and side seams of the skirt.
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Step 6
Pin the inner yoke to the already flashed outer yoke with the front side to the front side, aligning the side seams.
Unscrew the rear ends of the inner yoke, not reaching 5 mm to the edges of the cut, and pin it. The allowances at the edges of the cut, together with the bracelets of the hidden zipper, are unscrewed to the front side and pinned to the upper cut over the inner yoke.
Stitch upper slices.
Cut the seam allowances close to the stitch.
Step 7
Unscrew the inner yoke on the wrong side, iron the upper edge.
Pin the back ends of the inner yoke to the braid of the hidden zipper and sew it by hand.
Lay out the lower slice of the inner yoke over the seam of the grind of the outer yoke and pin it.
From the front side, sew the stitch exactly in the seam of the external coquette, thus securing the inner coquette.
Sew the top edge of the yoke to the edge and at a distance of 7 mm, breaking the stitches at the front bar.
End the stitches of the stitches on the wrong side and fasten.
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Source and illustration: Burda 5/2019
