In this master class, we will analyze several ways of processing the bottom of trousers with cuffs, as well as get acquainted with the history of their occurrence.
The cuff is a decorative detail, which draws the bottom of the trousers. Almost any kind of trousers can have cuffs. They look great with jackets, sports jackets, blazers and cardigans. The only exceptions are dress coats, business cards and tuxedos, i.e. evening gown items.
In a previous publication, we examined the technology of processing the bottom of the trousers to hem with a seam cut and using trouser braid.
How to hem trousers: processing the bottom of the trousers with a braid
Most fashion historians agree that trouser cuffs owe their appearance to the British king Edward VII in the second half of the 19th century. He first came up with the idea of tucking trousers in order to protect them from dust and dirt.
It is not known exactly who and when first ordered tailoring of trousers with cuffs to his tailor, however, men in such trousers began to appear in photographs from the beginning of the 20th century.
When choosing a model of trousers with cuffs, it should be borne in mind that:
- the front halves of the trousers, as a rule, are processed with pinches;
- the length of the trousers is shorter than usual, since the creases along the front arrow in trousers with cuffs look especially careless;
- the cuffs should be parallel to the floor, while resting against the back of the shoe, in no case protruding backward.
Pants with cuffs are not suitable for people of small stature, as they visually make the legs shorter. But if the desire to possess them is irresistible, you need to choose a narrower silhouette, and the length of the trousers should be even shorter to compensate for the effect of the cuffs. Sometimes cuffed trousers are so short that they don’t even touch shoes. This uniquely identifies them in an informal wardrobe.
Men: Spring / Summer 2015
Men's fashion, casual style
Option 1. Double cuffs bottom hem treatment
Step 1
Double cuffs allowance for men's straight trousers.
At the cutting stage, outline the hem line of the bottom at a distance from the upper cut, equal to the length of the trousers in the finished form. From this line down, lay the cuff width, draw a horizontal line. Then again set aside the width of the cuff and draw a third horizontal line.
Additionally, provide an allowance for processing the lower cut of 1.0 cm.
Beveling along the bottom line (see previous publication) is not performed.
Making allowance for processing double cuffs on men's skinny trousers.
It is carried out the same way as on straight trousers, but it is necessary to provide a bevel on the side and step seams so that the cuff gently hugs the leg, repeating its shape, rather than tightening it. To do this, additionally draw an auxiliary line (dashed line) above the hem line of the bottom to the width of the cuff. Measure the width of the leg in this level. Set the exact same amount according to the allowance for the hem, half in both directions from the arrow line. Connect these points with the side and step sections along the hem line of the bottom. Perform this operation with both halves of the trousers.
Making allowance for processing double cuffs on women's trousers.
The allowance for processing double cuffs is constructed as described above, except for the width of the allowance for hem. From the bottom line of the cuff, it is necessary to lay down the allowance equal to the width of the cuff minus 1.0 cm, but not more than 4.0 cm.
Step 2
The bottom of classic men's trousers is processed using trouser braid. Trouser braid on one edge has a thickening that protects the bottom of the trousers from abrasion.
Important!
Before using the trouser braid, it is necessary to decant: soak in hot water, dry, iron in a dry form without stretching to avoid deformation.
WTO Secrets: What does it mean to iron?
The length of the piece of tape for processing one leg is equal to twice the width of the trousers at the bottom plus 2 cm.
Mark the cuff line and the lower cuff line on the front of the trousers.
Put the braid on the allowance for the bottom of the trousers so that its thickened edge lies on the cuff, overlapping the bottom line of the cuff by 0.1-0.2 cm, and the braid itself covers the untreated section of the bottom. Bind the braid, starting from the step seam, with uniform tension. The bottom of the trousers should not be tightened, but the stretched bottom of the trousers is also not allowed.
Step 3
Starting from the step seam, stitch the lower edge of the trouser braid, laying a line 0.2 cm from the thickened edge. Bend the free edge of the braid at the level of the stepping seam and make lateral fastening.
Unscrew the bottom of the trousers to the wrong side, sweep the cuff along the line of inflection with straight basting stitches. Sew the second edge of the braid onto the trousers.
Step 4
Unscrew the cuff on the front side of the trousers, releasing the thickened edge of the braid over the bottom line. Notice.
Secure the cuff edge over the step and side seam manually or by stitching exactly in the side and step seam. Iron.
How to properly carry out wet-heat treatment of men's trousers
Note: in women's trousers, double cuffs are processed without trouser braid. Processing technology is shown below.
Step 1
Move the markings to the front of the trousers with straight basting stitches. Neaten the bottom cut.
Bend the cuff to the wrong side along the cuff's inflection line, sweep in two lines: 1.0 cm from the bend of the cuff and 1.0 cm from the lower hem section.
The hem allowance is hemmed manually with loose, hidden stitches.
Step 2
Unscrew the cuff on the front side of the trousers, sweep. Secure the cuff edge over the step and side seam manually or by stitching exactly in the side and step seam. Iron.
Note: as a rule, cuffs of trousers are made double, and only in those cases when it is necessary to increase the length of trousers, one and a half cuffs are processed.
Option 2. Processing the bottom of the trousers with one and a half cuffs
When processing the bottom of the trousers with one and a half cuffs, the trousers are longer than with the double cuffs, half the width of the cuff.
Step 1
At the cutting stage, outline the bottom hem line at a distance from the upper cut, equal to the finished pants length minus half the cuff width!
From this line down, lay aside half the width of the cuff, draw a horizontal line - this is the upper edge of the cuff in the finished form.
Then lay down the cuff width again and draw a third horizontal line - this is the bottom line of the trousers in the finished form.
Additionally, provide an allowance for bottom processing. It is equal to half the width of the cuff + 1.0 cm.
Bevel along the side and step sections if the silhouette of the trousers is narrowed.
Move the markings to the front of the trousers. Trim the lower section of the trousers.
Step 2
Apply trouser braid to the bottom allowance of the trousers in such a way that its thickened edge overlaps the bottom line by 0.1-0.2 cm. Design the braid, starting from the step seam, with uniform tension.
Sew on the bottom edge of the braid, laying a line 0.2 cm from the thickened edge. Bend the free edge of the braid at the level of the stepping seam and cross-tighten. Then, without interrupting the line, stitch the second side of the braid 0.1-0.2 cm from the edge.
Step 3
Unscrew the allowance for the bottom of the trousers to the wrong side, align the swept-over edge with the upper marking line, overlapping it by 1.0 cm. Observe the margin of the allowance and sew it onto the trousers along the marking line.
Step 4
Lay the cuff on two sides so that the seam line runs exactly in the middle, and the thickened edge of the braid goes to the bottom of the trousers with an even edge. Notice and iron.
Secure the cuff edge over the step and side seam manually or by stitching exactly in the side and step seam.
Option 3. Processing the bottom of the trousers with stitched double cuffs
If you do not have enough fabric to carve out a full allowance for processing a double cuff, or if you need to extend the trousers of a grown child, you can use this method.
Step 1
Mark the bottom line at a distance from the upper cut, equal to the length of the finished pants minus half the width of the cuff! Add 1.0 cm machining allowance.
Cut out the details of the cuffs in width equal to the details of the front and rear halves. The height of the details of the trim cuffs is equal to 3.5 widths of the cuffs in the finished form. If the fabric of the trousers has a pronounced pattern, when cutting the cuffs, its adjustment is required.
Mark the horizontal lines on the details of the cuffs:
- from the upper cut at a distance of 1.0 cm down;
- set aside the cuff width from the previous line down - this is the bottom line of the trousers in the finished form;
- two lines at a distance of the width of the cuff - this is the bend line of the cuff and the second line of the bottom of the trousers in the finished form;
- allowance for processing the bottom equal to the width of the cuff minus 1.0 cm (with a cuff width of at least 4 cm). The bottom allowance should close the seam seam allowance of the cuff. If the cuff is already planned for 4 cm, then the width of the allowance is equal to the width of the cuff.
Step 2
Move the line marking to the front side of the trim cuffs. Stitch the front and back of the cuffs along the step and side seams into the ring. Iron the seams. Trim the lower section of the cuffs.
Draw cuffs on the bottom of the trousers with their sides facing each other, combining side and step seams on the trousers and cuffs.
Stitch cuffs to the bottom of the trousers. Iron the seam allowances.
Step 3
Sew trouser braid to allowance in the same way as when processing one and a half cuffs.
Step 4
Unscrew the bottom allowance for the underside. Observe the cuff 1.0 cm from the cuff line and 1.0 cm from the lower hem section. The swept-over bottom allowance should overlap the seam seam allowance of the cuff.
Sew over the swept-over cut of the allowance on the trousers or hem manually with hidden stitches.
Step 5
Unscrew the cuff on the front side of the trousers, sweep. Secure the cuff edge over the step and side seam manually or by stitching exactly in the side and step seam. Iron.
The author of the master class and photo: Elena Lenkova
Lena has a higher and special education - a tailor of outerwear for men, women and children.
In clothes, he appreciates the individuality and thoughtfulness of the image, the originality of the cut. He likes to analyze modeling techniques and product processing technology. Leads his page on Instagram. Many people know Lena as a longtime user of the BurdaStyle.ru website.
"The quality of processing and the interior decoration of the product are integral aspects of sewing."
Material prepared by Julia Dekanova
