DIY patchwork jacket: Model 112 from Burda 1/2018

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This model is an absolute hit of the winter season, and thanks to the detailed instructions, you will certainly succeed.

You will need:

· Crepe 140 cm wide: blue - 1.30 m, brown - 0.50 m, white - 0.40 m for all sizes;
Lining fabric 1.30 m wide 140 cm for all sizes;
· Non-woven G 405 90 cm wide;
6 hooks with jumpers for sewing

Besides:

· Silk paper for transferring patterns from a sheet of patterns;
· Pencil, paper scissors;
· Centimeter tape, tailor's pins;
· Tailor's crayon, the "magic" tailor's crayon;
· Scissors for cutting and small scissors for needlework;
· Burda carbon paper, gear wheel for pattern translation;
· Needle of the sewing machine, manual needle for sewing;
Thread for sewing

Sizes 34−44

Recommended fabrics:

light wool or mixed jacket fabrics.

Jacket pattern

Special offer

A-line jacket

Magazine: Burda 1/2018 Pattern: 112 Sizes: 34 - 44 A short A-line jacket with contrasting geometric inserts in the front and back - for those ... 200 p. 99 p. Add to cart Short A-silhouette jacket with contrasting geometric inserts front and rear - for those who ...
Glue the sheets of the paper pattern and cut out the details of the required size along the corresponding contour lines, paying attention to the marking and inscriptions.
If you want to save the pattern, transfer it to tracing paper and cut out the details of the paper pattern.

Extra tip:

the size of the jacket is determined by the circumference of the chest (size 34 = 80 cm, size 36 = 84 cm, size 38 = 88 cm, size 40 = 92 cm, size 42 = 96 cm, size 44 = 100 cm).

Pattern Details

21 Upper shelf 2x
22 The middle part of the shelf 2x
23 Triangle (brown) 8x
24 Front triangle (shelf) 2x
25 Middle triangle (shelf) 2x
26 Side triangle (shelf) 2x
27 The lower part of the shelf 2x
28 Upper back with 1x fold
29 The middle part of the back 2x
30 Triangle (at the line of the middle of the back) 2x
31 Middle triangle (back) 2x
32 Side triangle (back) 2x
33 Lower back with 1x fold
34 Top of sleeve * 2x
35 Elbow of the sleeve * 2x
36 Stand Collar with 2x fold
37 Subboard 2x
38 Turning the back of the neck with a fold 1x
39 Grinding the lower cut of the shelf 2x
40 Grinding the lower cut back with a fold 1x
(* cut these details also out of the lining fabric)

From lining fabric:

41 Shelf 2x
42 Backrest with 1x fold

Layout plans show how to arrange paper pattern details on fabric / lining

Crepe in blue: details 21, 28 and 34−38
Brown Crepe: 23, 27, 33, 39 and 40
White crepe: details 22, 24−26 and 29−32
Lining fabric: details 34, 35, 41 and 42

Cutting (three fabrics)

Fold the fabric in half with the front side inward, aligning the edges. Place the details of the paper pattern on the fabric according to the layout plans and pin. Mark the allowances around the details of the paper pattern with a ruler and tailor's chalk: 1.5 cm across all sections and seams. Cut out the details along these lines.

Gasket

Fold interlining along the adhesive side in half. Pin the parts 36-40. Mark allowances 1.5 cm wide for all sections of parts. Cut out gasket parts. In addition, strip strips to cut for allowances for bending the bottom of the sleeve parts (parts 34 and 35) to the bend lines. Iron the gasket on the wrong side of the corresponding cut parts.

Seam lines and marking

Fold the parts duplicated by the gasket with the front sides / in half with the front side inward. Pin the details of the paper pattern. The contours of all the details of the pattern (seam and bottom lines), as well as all the marked lines and transverse marks, should be transferred to the wrong side of the cut parts using a gear wheel (cutter) and carbon paper (see the manufacturer's instructions). On the parts of the sleeves, fold lines to the front side with large counting stitches. On all triangles by tailor's chalk, put the part numbers of the pattern and marks for the lower / upper sections.

Methods for marking the details of the pattern on the fabric

Cut lining

Cut the details of the paper pattern 34 and 35 to the lining lines. Fold the lining in half along the front side inwards. Place parts 34, 35, 41, and 42 on the lining fabric and pin, while part 42 is folded. Lining details to cut out. The contours of the details of the pattern should be transferred to the details of the cut of the lining using carbon paper.

Shelves

First lay out the details of one shelf next to each other in the way they should grind. At the same time on the triangles should pay attention to the labels of the lower sections. Then lay out the details of the other shelf symmetrically.

Stitch Triangles

Next, sew a row of small triangles, respectively alternately white and brown. Always cleave only one part with the subsequent and perform a seam. Cut the allowances of each seam to a width of 7 mm and iron. Then pin and stitch the next triangle. Continue this way until 4 front triangles are sewn into one strip. The lateral white triangle (part 26) has not yet been ground.

How to embroider a part with an acute angle: a master class

Stitch the middle parts of the shelves and side triangles

Pin each large white triangle to the upper section of the strip of small triangles with the front side to the front side and stitch. Cut the seam allowances close to the line and iron. Stitch the last small white triangle (part 26) to the side cut of a row of triangles, finishing the top line at the allowance (arrow). At the beginning and at the end of the line, sew the stitches. Cut the seam allowances close to the line and iron.

Stitch the top of the shelves

Pin each top of the shelf to the middle of the shelf and to the row of triangles from the side edge to the corner, aligning the transverse mark 1 with the transverse seam. Cut the upper part of the shelf in the corner close to the last stitch of the stitch (arrow). Then pin the top of the shelf from the notch to the corner and grind. At the end, grind short transverse sections to the side cut (reference mark 2). Cut the seam allowances close to the lines and iron.

Back

Stitch back details in the same way as shelf parts: start from 2 rows of small triangles (5 pieces each), then grind the middle parts of the back (large white triangles) to the upper sections of the rows of triangles, at the end, grind the upper part of the back (see step 8).

Lower parts of shelves and backs

Pin the lower parts of the shelves to the lower sections of the shelves with the front side to the front side (check mark 3). Stitch slices from the side of the triangles, while the line should go exactly through the corners of the triangles. Stitch the lower back to the back (reference mark 6). Iron the seam allowances.

Shoulder seams

Place the shelves on the back with the front side to the front side, chop off the shoulder sections, while slightly fitting the shoulder sections of the back. Slices to grind. Place the pick on the back of the neckline, chop and grind the shoulder sections. Iron the seam allowances.

Stand collar

Duplicate the collar-stand collar with the gasket face the neck side to the front side, aligning the transverse marks with the shoulder seams. Stitch the detail of the stand-up collar into the neck. Cut the seam allowances close to the stitch, cut and iron. Another detail of the stand-up collar is likewise to be sewn into the neck of the pick-ups and the hem of the back of the neck.

How to sew an original removable stand-up collar: a master class

Side seams, cuts

Place the shelves on the back with the front side to the front side, chop and grind the side sections, starting / ending the lines at the cut marks (arrow). At the beginning and at the end of the stitches, sew the stitches. Iron the seam allowances.

Sleeves / front seams, cut edges

Place the elbow parts of the sleeves on the upper parts of the sleeves with the front side to the front side, chop off the front sections (reference mark 12), grind. Iron the seam allowances.Unscrew the allowances for the hem of the bottom of the sleeves along the lines of the folds on the front side and pin them to the edges of the cuts, lay the lines from the folds to the marks of the cuts (arrows). At the beginning and at the end of the stitches, sew the stitches. From the cut marks, turn down the allowances for the hem of the bottom of the sleeves and pin them. The allowances for the bottom hem on the wrong side should not be turned away yet.

Processing a section of a sleeve with a cuff: master class

Sleeves / elbow seams, hem hem

Fold the sleeves along the front inwards. Chip off the elbow sections (reference mark 11) and grind to the mark of the sections. At the beginning and at the end of the stitches, sew the stitches. Unscrew the allowances for the bottom hem of the sleeves on the wrong side and sweep. Iron the seam allowances. Sew the bottom hem allowances manually with loose stitches. Manually sew allowances above cut marks.

Stitch sleeves

Pin each sleeve to the cut of the armhole with the front side to the front side, fitting the sleeve ridge between the marks. Cross marks 13 on the upper part of the sleeve and on the shelf to combine. Align the cross mark on the sleeve ridge with the shoulder seam. Align the cross mark on the elbow of the sleeve with the side seam. Stitch the sleeve from the side of the sleeve. Cut the seam allowances close to the stitch and unscrew the sleeve o-rings on the sleeve.

Lining

Fold the back of the lining in half along the front side inwards. On marking, sew a crease onto a loose fit, sweep a crease between the seams. Iron the crease depth in one direction. Delete a blueprint. On the shelves of the lining, grind the breast tucks, iron the depths of the tucks down. Suture the lining by aligning the same check marks. Stitch lining sleeves. Iron allowances on the bottom hem of the lining and the lining sleeves on the wrong side.

Stitch the lining to the selections and the neckline

Picking the backstitch and neckline to the lining with the front side to the front side, aligning the shoulder seams. Stitch the lining by starting / ending the line at the transverse mark 17 (arrow). Cut the seam allowances close to the stitch. In the rounding areas (back of the neck), allowances are cut in several places. Iron seam allowances on the lining.

Lining the jacket

Picking the neck and lining of the neck with the lining to the jacket with the front side to the front side, aligning the seams of the stitching parts of the stand-up collar. Sweep the bottom sections, sections of the sides and collar.

Lower cut edges

Pin the lower sections of the shelves to the lower sections and the edges of the side sections of the shelves. Similarly, pin the back of the lower cut of the back to the back. Lay lines along the lower sections of the back and shelves, sections of the sides and collar, starting / ending the lines at the marks of the cuts. At the beginning and at the end of the stitches, sew the stitches. Cut the seam allowances close to the lines, cut them in the rounding sections, cut diagonally at the corners.

Sew a lining

Unscrew the pick-up and the back of the neckline to the wrong side, unscrew the stand-up collar, put the lining in the jacket on the wrong side to the wrong side. Sweep the edges and iron them. Pull the lower section of the lining slightly up and sew it manually to the hemings of the lower sections. Unscrew excess lining fabric with fold down and iron slightly. Sew the remaining sections of the lining to the kits and the edges of the side sections. Sew the seam to the hemings of the lower sections of the shelves. Sew lining sleeves to the hem of the lower sections of the sleeves.

Fake hem on the bottom of the product: master class

Hooks and jumpers

Sew the jumpers to the left selection: the upper jumper is under the seam of the stitching of the stand-up collar, the lower one is at a distance of 8 cm from the lower edge, the rest of the jumpers are between the upper and lower jumpers at the same intervals. Jumpers should barely protrude over the edge of the board. Sew the hooks to the right selection according to the jumpers. The edges of the sides of the buttoned jacket should be aligned.
Source and illustrations: Burda 1/2018
Material prepared by Julia Dekanova