Small bust

The things you sew are always perfectly fit your shoulders and waist, but in your chest are clearly large? To prevent this from happening again, we will teach you how to change the pattern!

A finished blouse or jacket that is too wide in the chest cannot be fitted to the shape, just making them narrower. A good fit is provided by tucks, which should be provided for in the design of the model and have a shallower depth than usual. Therefore, changes must be made precisely in the pattern!
First, we’ll narrow it down a bit ...

On the pattern, draw a dashed line at a right angle (1), cut the pattern along the drawn line from the side seam line to the shoulder seam line and move the cut-off part of the pattern 1 cm forward with the armhole. Draw a straight line of the shoulder from the neck to the armhole again. Draw a new line of the side seam (2) with a tuck in the chest. Now the side seam line has become a little shorter. On the shelf and back, measure the length of the side seam line and shorten it on the back at the armhole by half.
For a model with a relief seam, glue the patterns of the lateral and middle parts of the shelf at the armhole according to the control marks. Draw a dotted line at a right angle (3), cut the pattern along the drawn line, move the cut-off part of the pattern with the armhole 1 cm forward and glue it.

Re-draw the lines of the side and relief seams (4) and cut the pattern along the new line of the relief seam.Align the lines of the side seams on the shelf and back.
... then reduce the depth of the tuck!
For a model with a lateral tuck on the chest, draw a horizontal line from the midline of the front to the top of the tuck on the shelf pattern and put a mark (5). Cut the pattern along the drawn line and then along the line of the middle of the tuck depth. Lay the slices on top of each other 1-1.5 cm wide and glue. Re-draw the tuck lines (6).


For a model with a vertical tuck, draw auxiliary lines as shown in fig. 7. Cut the pattern from the line of the middle of the front almost to the line of the side seam and from the lower edge of the part almost to the top of the tuck. Slices should be evenly laid on each other at a width of 1-1.5 cm from the line of the middle of the front to the top of the tuck and glue, from the top of the tuck to the line of the side seam, lay the slices on each other in a wedge-shaped manner (8).
For a model with a relief seam, draw an auxiliary line on the patterns of the middle and lateral parts of the shelves along the dashed line at the chest level (9).

Cut the pattern of the middle part of the shelf, lay the slices on top of each other at a width of 1-1.5 cm and glue. Cut the pattern of the side of the shelf from the line of the embossed seam almost to the line of the side seam. Lay the slices on each other in a wedge-shaped manner, at the line of the relief seam, to the same width as on the pattern of the middle part of the shelf. The side seam line remains unchanged.